Back in Alan Ayles’ day NK&C used to keep overhaul kits in stock. Don’t know if the new lot are worth a try.

Malcolm. If that is the case, then not difficult to remove. The ACRO engine installation requires that the standard Nipper fuel filler cap and fuel contents float are both removed, and that the redundant tube that guided the float level wire is blocked off. The various new plumbing items on the modi...

MGR. OK, a my 3 with a flop tube. Is the fuel tank modified as in the images below? If so, removal is easier than you might imagine. Slingsby did publish a mk 3 owners handbook, but I no longer have a copy. There is also a parts manual produced and supplied with kits. I think my copy was also publis...

MGR. Hi, is it a mk 3, or is it a mk 2 with the attachment backplate? The top attachment is usually by studs that screws into the engine backplate, or in the case of the original mk 2 was rod end assembly. Between the engine and firewall there are usually 4 light alloy spacers. These sit ‘loose’ on ...

MGR - Hi. To remove the firewall requires the engine to be removed first. Photo is of the firewall for a Mk 2 Nipper - modified by a previous owner to accommodate a dual Bendix series 2000 magneto.

Surely this is just the sort of question that can be answered by Aeroweld? They should hold details of the current drawing for this part, as well as the history of any amendments to the design.

I know of a Slingsby built Nipper Mk 3 that the owner wishes to sell. It’s dismantled and apart from having the turnbuckle x-brace mod. complete, it is in original condition. It has not flown or the engine been run in 30+ years. This aircraft will require a complete restoration and a new engine, so ...

Malcolm. You say this is an BS Acro 1835 with inverted fuel and oil, and you also that you have a carburettor and a carb heat take-off from the exhaust. A true BS Acro 1835 built with fuel injection and inverted oil system has no need of a carburettor - I should know as I have flown behind them for ...

Hi MRG, bummer eh? I don’t know your VW engine type, so a few questions: 1/ How many hours since last overhaul? 2/ Did it stand idle and not run for long periods? 3/ What was the oil filter internals like when ‘your guy’ broke it open? 4/ Do you have a CHT gauge or oil cooler fitted? 5/ What was the...

You are welcome Malcolm. Don’t take too much away from the fact that the fitting is I place and the wing fabric work is unfinished. I moved house during the rebuild and carried the on the roof of the car - hence the need for tie-down fittings.

Hi Malcolm - own experience is that if there has been repair/refurb work it may not have been done to origin condition. I mention brass wood screws because that is what would have been used originally. Anything otherwise is between you and your inspector. Candle wax is also a good lubricant for bras...

Malcolm - I no longer have drawings of the Nipper wing construction, so may not have a 100% correct answer. The tie-down plate is screwed onto the end rib (no. 9?), using brass screws. Within the rib should already be a small ash block that is sandwiched between the plywood that surfaces the spruce ...

No idea what’s happen here.

No idea what’s happening here.

Neil, forgive me, but although you say that there is a slope from rear to front, aren’t the two take-off points at the same level?